Mumm's the Word in Great Champagnes, Joe Ory

The bright idea to put labels on champagne bottles came long after it was legal to transport champagne (and wine) in bottles rather than casks.  In the 1860's an agent for G.H. Mumm & Cie recommended that a label displaying the red sash of the French Legion d'Honneur might increase sales.   Over time that label segued into the familiar diagonal red stripe we see today on the Mumm's label that has "Cordon Rouge" emblazoned on it. Sometimes it's as important to know what's on a champagne bottle as it is to know what's in a champagne bottle.  G.H. Mumm offers the perfect example.

Mumm's Cordon Rouge is the flagship, non-vintage, stock sparkler offered by the firm.  Don't think because this is their standard fare that it's not delicious, it is.  All champagne houses create champagne to exacting standards which far surpass the minimum requirements of the laws of champagne making.  The Cordon Rouge is classically a big pinot noir (structure, character, power)/pinot meunier (freshness) wine with a 25% or so addition of chardonnay (finesse, lightness, elegance).  This cuvee is emblematic of the classic non-vintages of the region. Expect a lovely, delicate nose, an enjoyable drinkability, and a biscuity, fruity flavor.  Cordon Rouge has been popular in America since its introduction to the states back in the 1950's.  This popular blend, while appropriate as an aperitif, will stand up to most foods.

Interestingly enough, while the vast majority of champagne is a blend of the three official grapes of champagne, several champagne concerns fine the chardonnay grape to have the finesse and backbone to stand alone.  Mumm's shares that opinion as evidenced by its production of Mumm de Cramant.

Cremant or Cramant?  Again, back to the label.  The label of the Mumm de Cramant can be puzzling.  The vocabulary of the Champagne region includes the terms "Cremant" and "Cramant".  Specifically, in Champagne, cremant means "creaming and refers to a slightly less effervescent wine.  Cramant, on the other hand, is a 100% rated Chardonnay vineyard in the Cote De Blanc.  Originally Mumm's elixir was called Mumm's Cremant de Cramant.  Now it is simply referred to as Mumm de Cramant though the consensus is that it does indeed possess less pressure than fully effervescent champagnes.  The floral grapes of Cramant blended with a weaker pressure makes for an elegant, buttery wine.  It's soft on the palate with hints of honeysuckle, toasted vanilla and even a whisper of peach.  It speaks softly, but carries a big stick.

The brashness and assertiveness of the Cordon Rouge, both on the palate, and the label, is inversely proportional to how reserved the wine and the label are of the Mumm's Cramant.  A diminutive "G.H. Mumm's & Cie.", in red, is barely noticeable positioned above the large lettering of Mumm de Cramant on the apple-flesh colored label.  The two cuvees offer a diverse range of champagne making form a single Grand Marque.

Surprise your guests this Thanksgiving by offering the Mumm de Cramant as an aperitif, and break out the Cordon Rouge with the turkey rather than the tired, unimaginative tradition of Beaujolais Nouveau or a monotonous California red.  Thanksgiving, after all, is a celebration of our cornucopia of good fortune, no? What better way to toast our prosperity than with champagne?  And, champagne, it's not just for toasting anymore. Guess who's coming to dinner?  After Thanksgiving, think of serving the Cordon Rouge while entertaining family and friends, think of Mumm de Cramant for lovers.  Neither party will leave unfulfilled.

A final note about labels.  You'll notice the upper right-hand corner of the Mumm de Cramant appears to be dog-eared.  Lore has it that the owners of small champagne houses would turn down the corner of the labels of bottles guests received as gifts so as to inhibit the recipient from introducing the bottle into commerce. Mumm's, mimicking this tradition, displays it's pride with the finished potion.  The simulated dog-ear is a wink and a nod that you should consider it a gift.  One taste is a convincing argument.  Therefore, it's only fair that you should return the favor if you find yourself in possession of a bottle-find someone to share your gift, and your good fortune to have worthy company!